Monday, October 14, 2013
What a truly magical day. I started with a run on the Seine (it never gets old) just as a lot of the street vendors and artists were waking up, and as others made their ways (mostly on their scooters) to work. I love it how the French women wear high, sexy heels even while riding their scooters. Impressive.
Then, I grabbed a "coffee creme," a chocolate croissant (duh) and fresh-squeezed OJ from the boulangerie downstairs outside of my apartment, before getting ready and heading off. I first walked through the Twillery Gardens and made my way by the Concorde (where they used to behead people) and up Champs-Elyesse. I could see the Arc de Triomph the entire time and it was beautiful. The street was lined with many familiar shops (and some new ones), and the fanciest shop on the street? Abercrombie & Fitch...go figure. And it definitely gave me a good laugh.
I grabbed a light lunch (a croque madame...basically the best grilled cheese sandwich I've ever had) and then went home to rest for a quick bit.
At 5pm, I headed out to an amazing restaurant that I'd read about on Yelp. It's right near the Eiffel Tower and is called La Varangue Phillipe's. Phillipe is the owner/chef/maitre de...he basically does everything by himself. He was adorable and the food and wine were beyond amazing. After dinner, I walked over to the Eiffel Tower where I met up with the night bike tour I'd signed up for.
This was definitely one of the most amazing things I've ever done in my life. There were about 20 people in my group (mostly from other countries) and we headed off on our bikes just as it was beginning to rain. As we wove through the streets of Paris, we ended at our first stop on Ile Ste Louis for some ice cream. Afterwards, we rode around the entire city as the lights came up and it was truly magical. We rode through the square of the Louvre, all around the Seine, and parked our boats for an hour-long boat ride on the Seine at 10pm. Seeing everything at night was beyond incredible and I highly recommend this way of seeing Paris.
Finally, at midnight, I made it back to my Rue de la Huchette in the Latin Quarter, grabbed a crepe from the crepery downstairs (nutella, banana and coconut, obviously) and headed up to bed.
A day to remember forever.
Thursday, October 17, 2013
Last few days in Paris
Thursday, October 17, 2013 (writing this from a bridge right next to Notre Dame as the sun sets on a beautiful fall day in Paris...Aviva, try desperately to box this up and return to it once reality resumes...)
A great past few days. On Wednesday, I went on an all-day trip to Caen and then Normandy (the D-Day Beaches). I boarded a train at 7am and we made the 2 hour trip up to Caen. I was met there by our guide (Saundrine) and the rest of the group (8 of us total...Megan and Andrew on their honeymoon from New York, Susan and Will retirees from Los Angeles, Jim and Kay from Charleston, and then Paul, who was an older guy visiting his daughter in Paris. And me.) We started off at the DDay Museum in Caen and we learned from Saundrine about a lot of the events from WW I through DDay. We ate lunch there and then made our way to the British cemetery (the American cemetery was closed due to the Government Shutdown...how embarrassing). It was really moving/emotional as we walked around (it was cold and raining, which seemed fitting for the place) and read the names, ages and quotes (mostly from parents of the young men who died on DDay). I found one Jewish gravesite (Levy) and said kaddish.
We then got into our van and drove to the various key sites...Pont du Hoc, Omaha Beach, Juno, etc. It was pretty intense and I could almost close my eyes and picture the terror that so many young men faced, and the immense courage they embodied. And the reality is that they really saved the free world as we know it. I don't think this is something that my generation really understands enough about, and I worry that the last eye witnesses are nearly gone, and feel a need to ensure that we preserve the history and the stories.
At the end of the day, we boarded a 7pm train and I was back in my apartment by about 9:30pm (and totally exhausted after a powerful day).
Then, today, my last day in Paris, I got up and walked to a bakery on Ile Ste Louis for my morning crossiant and coffee. I then walked to the salon for my 10:30am haircut. What an experience. Mark Clement is probably in his 60s, African-American, gay, from Pasadena, CA and has lived in Paris since 1980. He was a total gem....so kind, open and talkative. I was there for two hours and had a total blast (and got a great haircut). We talked a lot about his experiences in Paris, and when he found out that I was Jewish, he started telling me about all of his clients (who are older women in their 80s and 90s) who remember the round-up of the Jews by the French police in the 1930s and 40s, and how there is still such a mistrust of French (rightfully so) by the Jewish community in France. There was another client in the salon (Helen, an African-American lady from the US who has lived in France for 10 years). We all had great conversations and it was such a reminder that human beings really are good.
Afterwards, I grabbed a crepe for a quick lunch and made my way over to L'Orangerie, where I saw some more Monet and the Frida Kahlo/Diego Rivera special exhibit. I walked back to my apartment, rested for a bit and am now heading to my final dinner in Paris. Off to Nice tomorrow for the final few days!!!
A great past few days. On Wednesday, I went on an all-day trip to Caen and then Normandy (the D-Day Beaches). I boarded a train at 7am and we made the 2 hour trip up to Caen. I was met there by our guide (Saundrine) and the rest of the group (8 of us total...Megan and Andrew on their honeymoon from New York, Susan and Will retirees from Los Angeles, Jim and Kay from Charleston, and then Paul, who was an older guy visiting his daughter in Paris. And me.) We started off at the DDay Museum in Caen and we learned from Saundrine about a lot of the events from WW I through DDay. We ate lunch there and then made our way to the British cemetery (the American cemetery was closed due to the Government Shutdown...how embarrassing). It was really moving/emotional as we walked around (it was cold and raining, which seemed fitting for the place) and read the names, ages and quotes (mostly from parents of the young men who died on DDay). I found one Jewish gravesite (Levy) and said kaddish.
We then got into our van and drove to the various key sites...Pont du Hoc, Omaha Beach, Juno, etc. It was pretty intense and I could almost close my eyes and picture the terror that so many young men faced, and the immense courage they embodied. And the reality is that they really saved the free world as we know it. I don't think this is something that my generation really understands enough about, and I worry that the last eye witnesses are nearly gone, and feel a need to ensure that we preserve the history and the stories.
At the end of the day, we boarded a 7pm train and I was back in my apartment by about 9:30pm (and totally exhausted after a powerful day).
Then, today, my last day in Paris, I got up and walked to a bakery on Ile Ste Louis for my morning crossiant and coffee. I then walked to the salon for my 10:30am haircut. What an experience. Mark Clement is probably in his 60s, African-American, gay, from Pasadena, CA and has lived in Paris since 1980. He was a total gem....so kind, open and talkative. I was there for two hours and had a total blast (and got a great haircut). We talked a lot about his experiences in Paris, and when he found out that I was Jewish, he started telling me about all of his clients (who are older women in their 80s and 90s) who remember the round-up of the Jews by the French police in the 1930s and 40s, and how there is still such a mistrust of French (rightfully so) by the Jewish community in France. There was another client in the salon (Helen, an African-American lady from the US who has lived in France for 10 years). We all had great conversations and it was such a reminder that human beings really are good.
Afterwards, I grabbed a crepe for a quick lunch and made my way over to L'Orangerie, where I saw some more Monet and the Frida Kahlo/Diego Rivera special exhibit. I walked back to my apartment, rested for a bit and am now heading to my final dinner in Paris. Off to Nice tomorrow for the final few days!!!
Sunday, October 13, 2013
Last day in London and...BONJOUR!
Saturday, October 12 - Sunday, October 13
During my last day in London, it was really sunny!!! I went for a quick run around Hyde Park (my new favorite running spot) and then took the tube to Leicester Square where I ate some brunch. I'd treated myself to last minute Book of Mormon tickets (a matinee), so I made my way over to the theater around 2pm. I really loved the play! The music was amazing and I found the play so engaging. I could also probably talk for hours about the many subtle (and not so subtle) messages of classism, racism, sexism, and so much more. I've never been a fan of South Park, but I have to admit that the writers are pretty genius.
I walked home from Piccadilly Circus (all the way down the Main Street of London, past Herrod's, etc.) and ate dinner at an cute little English pub near my hotel. Eating by myself doesn't bother me at all (not that it really ever did) but I've actually come to really enjoy it...I like the space to just think (or not) and read. I'm really going to try and bring back this tradition to my life back in Chicago.
Then, this morning (Sunday) I woke up, packed up and checked out of my hotel, grabbed a quick breakfast, and took the tube to the London train station to board my Chunnel. My Chunnel ride was painless, lovely and so easy. It took about 2 hours and took a nice tour of the French countryside on our way into Paris.
My transition to Paris wasn't quite as smooth, but it was definitely a comedy of errors. First, I had to find a way to call the woman meeting me at my apartment, but my iPhone wouldn't let me make calls. So, I had to purchase a "SmartCard" and use the payphone (seriously, I don't think I've used a payphone in a solid 15 years). I finally got in touch with her and made my way down to purchase my train ticket to hop on the metro. After waiting in line for 20 minutes, turns out the machine wasn't taking credit cards and I didn't have any euro coins (only coins, no bills for those machines)....blah blah blah. SO, I finally used some made up French to find the correct train and made it to the apartment. It's off this adorable side street (Rue de la Huchette) in the Latin Quarter. I unpacked, got settled and headed outside for a walk along the Seine. It was a totally perfect fall Parisian afternoon...sunny about 60 degrees. I walked around for about an hour and grabbed an early dinner. I'm going to head to bed early tonight so I can wake up tomorrow and be a true tourist all around Paris!!
During my last day in London, it was really sunny!!! I went for a quick run around Hyde Park (my new favorite running spot) and then took the tube to Leicester Square where I ate some brunch. I'd treated myself to last minute Book of Mormon tickets (a matinee), so I made my way over to the theater around 2pm. I really loved the play! The music was amazing and I found the play so engaging. I could also probably talk for hours about the many subtle (and not so subtle) messages of classism, racism, sexism, and so much more. I've never been a fan of South Park, but I have to admit that the writers are pretty genius.
I walked home from Piccadilly Circus (all the way down the Main Street of London, past Herrod's, etc.) and ate dinner at an cute little English pub near my hotel. Eating by myself doesn't bother me at all (not that it really ever did) but I've actually come to really enjoy it...I like the space to just think (or not) and read. I'm really going to try and bring back this tradition to my life back in Chicago.
Then, this morning (Sunday) I woke up, packed up and checked out of my hotel, grabbed a quick breakfast, and took the tube to the London train station to board my Chunnel. My Chunnel ride was painless, lovely and so easy. It took about 2 hours and took a nice tour of the French countryside on our way into Paris.
My transition to Paris wasn't quite as smooth, but it was definitely a comedy of errors. First, I had to find a way to call the woman meeting me at my apartment, but my iPhone wouldn't let me make calls. So, I had to purchase a "SmartCard" and use the payphone (seriously, I don't think I've used a payphone in a solid 15 years). I finally got in touch with her and made my way down to purchase my train ticket to hop on the metro. After waiting in line for 20 minutes, turns out the machine wasn't taking credit cards and I didn't have any euro coins (only coins, no bills for those machines)....blah blah blah. SO, I finally used some made up French to find the correct train and made it to the apartment. It's off this adorable side street (Rue de la Huchette) in the Latin Quarter. I unpacked, got settled and headed outside for a walk along the Seine. It was a totally perfect fall Parisian afternoon...sunny about 60 degrees. I walked around for about an hour and grabbed an early dinner. I'm going to head to bed early tonight so I can wake up tomorrow and be a true tourist all around Paris!!
First day in London as a Latina
Wednesday, October 9, 2013
A great first day. Actually, a lovely first day. (Americans should really start using the word lovely more often...so much more sincere. Or at least appears to feel sincere when the Brits here say it.)
I landed at 8am London time, made it through customs in about 10 minutes, and took the tube to my hotel. It was kind of cool getting to ride the morning commute with a bunch of Londoners. I can't get over the amount of diversity here. It's really unlike anything I've ever seen and I love it.
I had to wait for a few hours for my hotel room to be ready, so I headed to an adorable little coffee shop and joined many others for a morning coffee and breakfast. The email I sent to my friends/family:
"The flight was great (a shocking statement, I know, given that I flew first class). And, yes, money absolutely can still buy happiness. :)
1.) Everybody here thinks I'm Spanish. I've literally had 5 different people approach me and start speaking to me in Spanish. Love it!
A great first day. Actually, a lovely first day. (Americans should really start using the word lovely more often...so much more sincere. Or at least appears to feel sincere when the Brits here say it.)
I landed at 8am London time, made it through customs in about 10 minutes, and took the tube to my hotel. It was kind of cool getting to ride the morning commute with a bunch of Londoners. I can't get over the amount of diversity here. It's really unlike anything I've ever seen and I love it.
I had to wait for a few hours for my hotel room to be ready, so I headed to an adorable little coffee shop and joined many others for a morning coffee and breakfast. The email I sent to my friends/family:
"The flight was great (a shocking statement, I know, given that I flew first class). And, yes, money absolutely can still buy happiness. :)
I'm sitting at a coffee shop in London waiting for my hotel room to be ready, but I'm loving life already...so many different languages and cultures, and Kensington is definitely a cool and very "in the middle of everything" place to stay!
A few of the highlights so far:
2.) A bird pooped on my bag (my new Marc Jacobs bag, no less). Yep, it happened.
3.) Toast here can mean either a croissant or actual toast. And you don't know which one you'll get when you order it. (Unless the barista at this coffee shop is just messing with me, which is entirely possible...)
4.) I feel so fortunate to have this experience and am truly soaking up/enjoying every minute. Thanks for all of your love and encouragement.
Love you all!!"
I wandered up to Harrod's and so enjoyed my stroll there. I definitely felt like I could be in the movie Knotting Hill and half expected to casually bump into Hugh Grant along the way. There's something about London that feels so much fancier than the States; maybe it's the accents. But it seems to bring a certain appreciation and intentionality to everything people do here. Or at least that's my take on it so far.
Harrod's was beautiful, but at the end of the day, it was a department store. Truthfully, I don't see what all of the big fuss is about, but I'm glad I can say I visited. On my walk home, I stopped in (briefly) to the Albert Museum, where they have a bunch of different artifacts from various parts of the world. I might've been too tired from traveling to really appreciate it, so I only browsed for a little while and then left.
After my afternoon out, I watched a Lifetime-esque movie in my hotel room (my hotel is perfect, by the way...highly recommend it to those traveling to London) before heading out to dinner.
Dinner was so fantastic for a few reasons: one, the food was amazing. I went to an Indian restaurant right near my hotel and it was some of the best food (Tandoori and naan) I've ever eaten. Two, there was something pretty awesome about having a delicious meal by myself. It forced me to be much more appreciative and in tune with what I was eating, and I didn't feel rushed or pressured to make conversation, etc. I just sat there and enjoyed my meal, occasionally chatted with the waiters, and read my book on my iPad. A totally perfect end to my first day here.
They let Jews into Westminster Abbey...in case you were wondering
Thursday, October 11, 2013
After getting a solid 13 hours of sleep, I woke up this morning and went for a beautiful run around Hyde Park. After eating a bizarre breakfast at my hotel (English food is definitely not the highlight here), I headed out to begin my tourist adventures.
I started by going to the Churchill War Room, which was pretty incredible. Everything is so intact that I almost felt like a bunch of British generals were going to walk out and start giving orders. After that, I walked around St. James Park a bit (beautiful) and made my way over to Westminster Abbey. (Truth be told, I mostly went there to see where Kate and Williams got married.) I strolled by Big Ben, saw Buckingham Palace (and happened to see the Changing of the Guards earlier in the day from my cab!), and then stopped for a lunch at the most adorable little cafe near Buckingham Palace. After some potato and leek soup and a pie (i.e. pot-pie), I read a bit, drank some coffee, and was off again!!!
I walked across town to Trafalgar Square (after stopping at some teenie-popper store to pick up a scarf and gloves...it's chilly here!) and watched some street performers and just relaxed and people watched for a bit. After that, I walked up to Leister Square (I seriously think I walked about 10 miles today, no joke), picked up a cupcake on the way, and sat by a fountain of Shakespeare and ate my cupcake. I could totally get used to this life.
I'm now sitting at a coffee shop reading a book. I can't remember the last time I did this, and it's pretty glorious.
I'm about to go meet Christie (Tammy's childhood best friend) for dinner in a bit, and then plan to head back to my hotel and hit the hay. Another fabulous day!!!!
After getting a solid 13 hours of sleep, I woke up this morning and went for a beautiful run around Hyde Park. After eating a bizarre breakfast at my hotel (English food is definitely not the highlight here), I headed out to begin my tourist adventures.
I started by going to the Churchill War Room, which was pretty incredible. Everything is so intact that I almost felt like a bunch of British generals were going to walk out and start giving orders. After that, I walked around St. James Park a bit (beautiful) and made my way over to Westminster Abbey. (Truth be told, I mostly went there to see where Kate and Williams got married.) I strolled by Big Ben, saw Buckingham Palace (and happened to see the Changing of the Guards earlier in the day from my cab!), and then stopped for a lunch at the most adorable little cafe near Buckingham Palace. After some potato and leek soup and a pie (i.e. pot-pie), I read a bit, drank some coffee, and was off again!!!
I walked across town to Trafalgar Square (after stopping at some teenie-popper store to pick up a scarf and gloves...it's chilly here!) and watched some street performers and just relaxed and people watched for a bit. After that, I walked up to Leister Square (I seriously think I walked about 10 miles today, no joke), picked up a cupcake on the way, and sat by a fountain of Shakespeare and ate my cupcake. I could totally get used to this life.
I'm now sitting at a coffee shop reading a book. I can't remember the last time I did this, and it's pretty glorious.
I'm about to go meet Christie (Tammy's childhood best friend) for dinner in a bit, and then plan to head back to my hotel and hit the hay. Another fabulous day!!!!
I know how Londoners survive the rain
Friday, October 11, 2013
I walked up to Notting Hill this morning and made my way to a restaurant that had been recommended to me. It's owned by a Palestinian and an Israeli, and it was pretty delicious. I walked around Notting Hill for a bit and it was quite adorable. Lots of shops, restaurants, tree-lined streets, etc. On my way up there, I happened to find a street that was closed off to the public (by car) that was made up of embassies and other very important/fancy looking houses. Quite extravagant!
After Notting Hill, I took the tube down to Westminster and walked over the to Thames and the London Eye. It was raining pretty heavily at this point, so my trip was short-lived, but it was cool to see the sites. Then, I headed over to Piccadilly Circus, which is sort of like a mini version of Times Square (very mini). I picked up an English soccer t-shirt for the match tonight (obviously) and walked around a bit. The rain got the best of me and I hopped back on the tube up to Kenginston. I found a little cafe near my hotel, where I dined on vegetable soup and a butternut squash wrap, finished off with some sticky toffee pudding (my guess as to how Londoners survive the rain) and some mint tea, while reading a book on my iPad. I can't remember that last time I just sat and read, without any place to be or anything to worry about. It was beyond delightful and made me want to make time for that back home. I'm resting now before heading off to Wembley tonight for the match.
The soccer match at Wembley was incredible (England v. Montenegro) in a World Cup Qualifier match. I was at the 50 yd line about 10 rows up and could hear everything the players were saying, I could see their facial expressions before they made an incredible pass, etc. It was such a cool/exciting experience, and I loved the singing and comraderie of the game!!!!
I walked up to Notting Hill this morning and made my way to a restaurant that had been recommended to me. It's owned by a Palestinian and an Israeli, and it was pretty delicious. I walked around Notting Hill for a bit and it was quite adorable. Lots of shops, restaurants, tree-lined streets, etc. On my way up there, I happened to find a street that was closed off to the public (by car) that was made up of embassies and other very important/fancy looking houses. Quite extravagant!
After Notting Hill, I took the tube down to Westminster and walked over the to Thames and the London Eye. It was raining pretty heavily at this point, so my trip was short-lived, but it was cool to see the sites. Then, I headed over to Piccadilly Circus, which is sort of like a mini version of Times Square (very mini). I picked up an English soccer t-shirt for the match tonight (obviously) and walked around a bit. The rain got the best of me and I hopped back on the tube up to Kenginston. I found a little cafe near my hotel, where I dined on vegetable soup and a butternut squash wrap, finished off with some sticky toffee pudding (my guess as to how Londoners survive the rain) and some mint tea, while reading a book on my iPad. I can't remember that last time I just sat and read, without any place to be or anything to worry about. It was beyond delightful and made me want to make time for that back home. I'm resting now before heading off to Wembley tonight for the match.
The soccer match at Wembley was incredible (England v. Montenegro) in a World Cup Qualifier match. I was at the 50 yd line about 10 rows up and could hear everything the players were saying, I could see their facial expressions before they made an incredible pass, etc. It was such a cool/exciting experience, and I loved the singing and comraderie of the game!!!!
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
Ready for take off
Tuesday, October 8, 2013
Sitting in the International Terminal waiting to board my flight. Flying first class is amazing (not a profound statement, I know) and I got through checking my baggage and security in 5 minutes.
A few pictures above from the start of my adventure:
- As I was packing, I realized that I was bringing both pairs of these shoes; clearly necessities for my trip. The Cole Haan heels for nice dinners and the soccer shoes in case I find a pick-up game I want to join. A nice balance.
- Missy sat by my suitcase for much of the morning looking sad. My life partner, for sure.
- Okay, you guys, the bottom two pictures are amazing. Look closely. On the left, you'll see the directions for the electric toilet in the Virgin Atlantic first class lounge, with special directions on butt washing. And on the right, the buttons you push for a full "carwash." Just too good to pass up without sharing. Do you die?!
On a slightly more serious note (b/c there really is no good transition after talking about public bathroom butt washers)...
I really am filled with such gratitude as I head off on this adventure. Thinking back to where I was 2-3 years ago, I am so thankful for the strength and support of my amazing family, friends, colleagues, etc. I'm thankful that I'm independent and am really working to "seize the day" and make the most of this place in my life. I am beyond privileged to be going on this trip and to have the encouragement and love of all of the people in my life. I can't wait for the adventures-to-come in the next few weeks and will do my best to capture the details--the colors that make up London, the accents/languages I hear, the smells I encounter, and the incredible places I'll go.
Sitting in the International Terminal waiting to board my flight. Flying first class is amazing (not a profound statement, I know) and I got through checking my baggage and security in 5 minutes.
A few pictures above from the start of my adventure:
- As I was packing, I realized that I was bringing both pairs of these shoes; clearly necessities for my trip. The Cole Haan heels for nice dinners and the soccer shoes in case I find a pick-up game I want to join. A nice balance.
- Missy sat by my suitcase for much of the morning looking sad. My life partner, for sure.
- Okay, you guys, the bottom two pictures are amazing. Look closely. On the left, you'll see the directions for the electric toilet in the Virgin Atlantic first class lounge, with special directions on butt washing. And on the right, the buttons you push for a full "carwash." Just too good to pass up without sharing. Do you die?!
On a slightly more serious note (b/c there really is no good transition after talking about public bathroom butt washers)...
I really am filled with such gratitude as I head off on this adventure. Thinking back to where I was 2-3 years ago, I am so thankful for the strength and support of my amazing family, friends, colleagues, etc. I'm thankful that I'm independent and am really working to "seize the day" and make the most of this place in my life. I am beyond privileged to be going on this trip and to have the encouragement and love of all of the people in my life. I can't wait for the adventures-to-come in the next few weeks and will do my best to capture the details--the colors that make up London, the accents/languages I hear, the smells I encounter, and the incredible places I'll go.
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